Socca, the chickpea pancake sold by the wedge across Vieux Nice, is baked at roughly 400°C on copper discs a metre wide — and it is considered inedible after about fifteen minutes. That impatience explains the geography of eating here. Nice belonged to the House of Savoy until 1860, and the kitchen still reads as Ligurian more than French: olive oil rather than butter, anchovy rather than cream, basil pounded rather than infused. The market street at the heart of it, Cours Saleya at 06300 Nice, France, was laid out along the old shoreline as a place where growers from the Paillon valley met fishermen coming off the beach. Flowers took over one end in the nineteenth century. The produce stalls held the other. Both remain, which is why any serious food tour nice france itinerary begins on this rectangle of paving rather than on the Promenade des Anglais. The surrounding lanes — Rue Droite, Rue Pairolière, Place Rossetti — form a dense grid of specialist trades that survived because the buildings were too narrow to convert. A single street can hold a pasta maker rolling raviolis à la daube, a confiseur candying fruit by a method documented in Nice since the fourteenth century, and a bakery turning out pissaladière, the onion tart finished with anchovy and small black cailletier olives. Menton lemons, Bellet wine from the hills above the airport, and stockfish soaked for days for the local estocaficada all pass through the same few hundred metres. Guided visites gastronomiques and Nice Old Town food walking tours exist largely to sequence them, because the shops keep artisan rather than tourist rhythms. What gives the neighbourhood its density is the absence of a barrier. Entry to the public market and the Old Town costs 0 EUR, and the streets are open 00:00–23:59 every day of the week, so the eating quarter functions as a continuous public room rather than an attraction with a turnstile. Morning is when it does its real work: the recommended arrival window of 09:00–13:00 catches the market at full volume, stalls stacked with courgette flowers, tomatoes from Carros, and violet artichokes small enough to eat raw. By afternoon the trestles fold away and the restaurant tables advance across the same stones. Bookable food tour nice france tickets tend to follow one rhythm or the other — the market at its loudest, or the Baroque façades of Place Rossetti going gold at dusk before a full dinner. Verification of hours is available at https://www.explorenicecotedazur.com.